Mahabalipuram
Long weekends and public holidays are standard fair for September and October when living in India. Festival holidays for Ganesh Chaturthi, Dussehra, Gandhi Jayanti and Diwali, make it the perfect time for some short weekend escapes.
Not everyone in the family was up for more Indian travel, but I’m always ready to visit somewhere new, and this time Jack was my 'not so keen' offsider. Our final destination was Pondicherry, however direct travel from Bangalore to Pondicherry is not that easy or frequent, so we flew in to Chennai and then drove south after an early night.
The drive south had us make a quick stop at a local crocodile sanctuary where they are trying to breed and improve animal numbers of Indian and other Asian crocodiles and alligators. Crocodile Park, unfortunately, isn't receiving much funding these days, and is starting to fall in to disrepair. I think the only thing Jack and I took away from the short visit was 100 mosquito bites each, and we are now hoping that dengue fever is not too common in this area !!
Next stop on our way to Pondicherry was a visit to the UNESCO world heritage sites in Mahabalipuram. The various monuments were carved using different techniques throughout the years of the 7th and 8th centuries. Some were carved from single boulders, some are stone on stone construction and some are a combination of both. The workmanship in creating these amazing monolithic structures was incredible and most of them used a combination of ground shells, sand, egg whites, water and jaggery to create the ‘cement’ to hold them together. It is still holding them together today, so I can only assume it is far superior to common Indian cement made today.
We visited 7 sites, all with photos below, and I think Jack was done after the very first visit. Yes, the carvings are of similar gods and have similar stories, but the process of creation is different at each one each structure has its own unique story. We stopped at the following:
1. Pancha Rathas (5 chariots) this monument was carved from a single massive bolder !! It has 7 major pieces, 5 temple-like structures and then an elephant and tiger. It is superior in size and detail. It has had its fair share of attacks and earthquakes and it is still standing. I was just blown away that it was all carved from one rock.
2. The Shore Temple - this is the only remaining temple from 7 that previously dotted the coastline many centuries ago. The others have been ruined by the rough weather in the Bay of Bengal, and have collapsed in to the sea. The 108 bulls surrounding this old Shiva temple make for a unique view by the sea.
3. Varaha Cave temple - This cave temple, carved into the side of a hill with large pillars, was never completed but is massive in size and has unique floor carvings of what appear to be games, similar to Chess and Snakes and Ladders.
4. The Decent of the Ganges - is a huge mural style rock carving with many of the famous gods and legends known in Indian mythology.
5. The Old Lighthouse - there is now a new lighthouse standing close by, however the old lighthouse was constructed on top of yet another boulder. The stone would have been carved way below, and then transported by hand to the top of the bolder overlooking the bay.
6. The Krishna Cave Temple - this temple is actually built in to the side of the rock on which the Lighthouse is built.
7. Krishnas Butter Ball - this amazing boulder appears to be balancing on the smallest of edges. As you circle the rock you get to see it at different angles and the various perspectives provide you with amazement as to how it has balanced there for centuries.
After completing the history, I then went to visit one of the many stone carving artisans in the region who are all family run businesses. I amazed at the detail in their craft and how much time and effort goes in to carving these beautiful structures out of granite and marble rocks.
After a morning of temples and history, it was time to travel another couple of hours south to Pondicherry. I am so happy that I got to see these amazing stone structures in Mahabalipuran, and would highly recommend a day trip from Chennai if you are in the area.
Not everyone in the family was up for more Indian travel, but I’m always ready to visit somewhere new, and this time Jack was my 'not so keen' offsider. Our final destination was Pondicherry, however direct travel from Bangalore to Pondicherry is not that easy or frequent, so we flew in to Chennai and then drove south after an early night.
The drive south had us make a quick stop at a local crocodile sanctuary where they are trying to breed and improve animal numbers of Indian and other Asian crocodiles and alligators. Crocodile Park, unfortunately, isn't receiving much funding these days, and is starting to fall in to disrepair. I think the only thing Jack and I took away from the short visit was 100 mosquito bites each, and we are now hoping that dengue fever is not too common in this area !!
Next stop on our way to Pondicherry was a visit to the UNESCO world heritage sites in Mahabalipuram. The various monuments were carved using different techniques throughout the years of the 7th and 8th centuries. Some were carved from single boulders, some are stone on stone construction and some are a combination of both. The workmanship in creating these amazing monolithic structures was incredible and most of them used a combination of ground shells, sand, egg whites, water and jaggery to create the ‘cement’ to hold them together. It is still holding them together today, so I can only assume it is far superior to common Indian cement made today.
We visited 7 sites, all with photos below, and I think Jack was done after the very first visit. Yes, the carvings are of similar gods and have similar stories, but the process of creation is different at each one each structure has its own unique story. We stopped at the following:
1. Pancha Rathas (5 chariots) this monument was carved from a single massive bolder !! It has 7 major pieces, 5 temple-like structures and then an elephant and tiger. It is superior in size and detail. It has had its fair share of attacks and earthquakes and it is still standing. I was just blown away that it was all carved from one rock.
2. The Shore Temple - this is the only remaining temple from 7 that previously dotted the coastline many centuries ago. The others have been ruined by the rough weather in the Bay of Bengal, and have collapsed in to the sea. The 108 bulls surrounding this old Shiva temple make for a unique view by the sea.
3. Varaha Cave temple - This cave temple, carved into the side of a hill with large pillars, was never completed but is massive in size and has unique floor carvings of what appear to be games, similar to Chess and Snakes and Ladders.
4. The Decent of the Ganges - is a huge mural style rock carving with many of the famous gods and legends known in Indian mythology.
5. The Old Lighthouse - there is now a new lighthouse standing close by, however the old lighthouse was constructed on top of yet another boulder. The stone would have been carved way below, and then transported by hand to the top of the bolder overlooking the bay.
6. The Krishna Cave Temple - this temple is actually built in to the side of the rock on which the Lighthouse is built.
7. Krishnas Butter Ball - this amazing boulder appears to be balancing on the smallest of edges. As you circle the rock you get to see it at different angles and the various perspectives provide you with amazement as to how it has balanced there for centuries.
After completing the history, I then went to visit one of the many stone carving artisans in the region who are all family run businesses. I amazed at the detail in their craft and how much time and effort goes in to carving these beautiful structures out of granite and marble rocks.
After a morning of temples and history, it was time to travel another couple of hours south to Pondicherry. I am so happy that I got to see these amazing stone structures in Mahabalipuran, and would highly recommend a day trip from Chennai if you are in the area.
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| :) |
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| Pancha Rathas - the 5 chariots. All from a single rock |
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| You can see the damage created from an earthquake and the repairs required to keep it standing |
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| I do love this idol of a half man/half woman. I would like to think it was well before it's time and shows that we are both equally important. |
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| Pancha Rathas from the other side |
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| The Shore temple |
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| 108 bulls surrounding the Shiva Temple |
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| The beach along the side of the Shore Temple |
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| such intricate and beautiful carvings |
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| The Krishna Cave Temple with the old lighthouse on top |
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| The Decent of the Ganges |
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| Snakes and Ladders ? |
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| Chess ? |
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| The walk to the Old Lighthouse |
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| Krishna's Butter Ball |
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