Pondicherry - France in India

Many people have questioned where Pondicherry (or Puducherry as it is locally known) is and what it is known for.  However, when I mention the home of Life of Pi, people seem to know where I am talking about.  The opening scenes of the film are filmed in this historically French town.

Up until 1954 Pondicherry was a French colony, and even after Independence in 1947 it was still owned by the French for another 7 years.  When the French handed Pondicherry back to Indian, they gave a number of local Tamal Indians born in Pondicherry, the option to give up there Indian passport for that of a French one. There are still many French speaking locals living in there today with French Passports.

So, I am sure you are wondering, does Pondicherry feel like France ?  I don't think so, not anymore.    The architecture and street layout was definitely more European than other cities in India, and obviously there are some French influences in food, but I think today, Pondicherry is very much Indian.

On our way in to town we visited a fabulous paper factory, where all the paper is hand made using recycled products. The paper is made from scraps of cotton, hemp, straw, rags and saree's, wood, rice husks, algae and tea. The process of making the paper and then the ‘marbling’ detail they create on the paper was quiet the sight to see.  The man creates a vat of coloured die and then 'flicks' contrasting colours on to the surface and then moves it around with a stick before placing the handmade paper on top to create the pattern.  Even Jack was impressed watching this.  The factory also does screen printing and they take custom orders for unique designs from all over India. There is a small store within the grounds selling a huge array of paper products and, of course, I was a soft target in hearing of that.

Our hotel, the Palais de Mahe, had a true French feel.  The yellow and white painted exterior, arches and pillars inside, making us feel like we were being transported to France.  However, this only lasted while inside the large wooden entrance doors.  Outside those doors, Pondicherry is still in India, and the chaos, traffic, and smells, were all waiting for us.  A short walk and we were on the beach promenade which is closed nightly to all traffic and becomes a bustling place with people exercising and socialising until late into the evening.  There is no longer a beach along this stretch of the coast but the promenade was definitely a lovely place to take a walk in the evening out of the heat. 

We booked in to do a 2 hour bicycle tour on vintage (read old, very old but not vintage....) bikes winding our way through the French, Muslim and Tamil areas of the city.  We got to see the true Pondicherry way of life, crisscrossing the canel and discovering the local markets, churches, architecture, and ashrams. 

It was incredibly hot and humid on the East coast in September, and the hotel pool was a welcome sight for both of us.  Leaving Jack in the a/c, I visited the Cluny Embroidery Centre where widowed, battered or orphaned women can be supported and taught to complete the most intricate embroidery, They are in turn paid monthly to assist with living costs, and if needed, they can stay safely at the centre if they need too.  The mansion that this is done in was donated by a French lady and is a beautiful concept of aiding and supporting women in need.  Sister Augusta showed me around and was one of the loveliest people I have met in India.  The needlework was perfect and a lovely souvenir from my visit.  

The heat was getting the better of us so we managed to take a few Tuk Tuk rides through the city, which had us giggling with old school bike horns used to let people know you are there.  It often sounded like a group of frogs having a natter on the street.  Well, I suppose that was better than having a little boy, probably 2 years old, just drop his pants and pee on the street, spraying my flips flops…….  Yep, we were definitely still in India.

Pondicherry was lovely to visit, and our final day was a special visit to Auroville.

My paper from the Paper Factory

these flowers only blossom at this time of year around the Ganesh festival

The inside of our Hotel Courtyard !!

off we go on our 'vintage' bikes :)  Yes we look tired, it was very early……..

Sacred Heart Basilica

Cruising the streets

This man was drying and wrapping tobacco - apparently it is used for socking your socks when hiking to deter leeches.
Who knew ?

boy that would be heavy !!  and they wind there way through a SUPER busy market

Mangoes anyone ?

this is a traditional Tamil House from decades ago - the pilars are made from teak wood

The Sri Aurobindo Ashram

A mosque in the Muslim Quarter

The Bay of Bengal - along the promenade

an all time favourite advertisement.   Dead Body Box ?  Dead Freezer Box ?

Gandhi memorial

Tuk Tuk rides are so much fun

The French War Memorial on the Promenade

The Cluny Embrodiery centre is in this beautiful mansion

such beautiful work

not sure why they are all on an angle - maybe the tsunami ?