Bangalore Then and Now

As we have recently returned to a country where we’ve previously lived, and now to a city we’ve previously lived, I often get asked :

Is it different now?

What has changed?

Do you know anyone - is anyone still there from the first time around ?

Is it better or worse the second time around?

So, I thought I might provide some answers to those questions.  As some background, Bangalore was our first expat destination in 2013, so it will always have a unique place in our minds and hearts. It contained all or our ‘firsts’ and was the place where we learned how to live this crazy life. When I look back on my first blogs and the things we saw and were amazed with, I actually laugh out loud.  I was so green and insulated to the world outside of Australia, and now, coming back 3.5 years later, it sometimes feels like a completely different city and I am most definitely a different person.

So what has changed here in Bangalore?

1. The number one thing I think that’s changed has been the development. Oh my, has the progress been huge. The back lanes I would run on around near Palm Meadows are now fully sealed roads with houses, not shanty shacks on both sides. There are fully stocked shops and cafes, new malls.... it’s quite mind-blowing !  If possible, the city is getting even bigger and busier each day.  I have never experienced ‘growth’ like it.  Of course, with that growth come all the Indian issues of lack of infrastructure, chaos, lack of planning, and mass volumes of waste and pollution.
2. The thing that is most upsetting to me in coming back is that my dear sweet friends from our first stay are no longer just around the corner. It is a very surreal feeling to drive around and see our old house in Palm Meadows, and the homes of other friends, and at every turn there are wonderful memories.  There are a few familiar faces around but my only one close friend who has remained is now leaving Bangalore in 2 weeks :(  The life of an expat continues !
3. It seems more ‘international’ - It appears that the expat explosion has definitely hit Bangalore.  Even in the 3.5 years we have been away there are more expat communities and with all the development comes job growth and more international companies.  In the office in 2013, Mike was the only expat in an office of 400 people, now he is one of many expats in an office of over 5000 people. And if I compare this to Hyderabad, because that’s fresh in our minds, as a caucasian lady walking around, I am definitely not a novelty in Bangalore like I was in Hyderabad.  Everyone is just very used to the international nature of the city.
4. More availability of international items, particularly online. This includes online ordering of food and groceries using Amazon, Swiggy, Uber, Dunzo etc.  This has obviously change the shopping landscape but I am still struggling to find things that I would  usually consider grocery staples - examples are puff pastry, desiccated coconut, soft spread butter. We obviously get by and are not complaining, as it is much better than before.

What hasn’t changed?

1. The insane traffic !! Well, to be honest, it has changed, it’s got even worse! The number one thing people say about Bangalore is how horrendous the traffic is. The boys bus trip to school is about 38 kms and can take 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours to get there........  Mike’s work is only 11km and on average it’s a 70-90 minute drive.  There is nothing quite like Bangalore traffic.
2. Cows.  Of course, Bangalore is a predominately Hindi city, so cows are everywhere.
3. Horns - well that is just India - but the constant honking of horns as you drive around in the horrendous traffic is all the more apparent in Bangalore.
4. School - luckily the school the boys went too previously has remained a good school and the social and academic side of the school is still great.
5. Still can’t buy a case of beer - whenever I attempt to buy a case of beer, it seems that I am always stuck with the option of  ‘only 22 sir’ - or some other random number…… oh for a Dan Murphys store.
6. Security - everywhere you go I have to be scanned, handbags scanned, a bit of a ‘grab and feel’ and of course, checking your bags in to a locker if you go in to another store and you happen to have parcels from somewhere else.  This would have to be one of the MOST annoying things about shopping…… hence the push for online shopping.
7. The weather definitely hasn't changed.  We have always said that the weather in Bangalore is perfect - we are in winter in now and it is basically sunny everyday and temperatures range between 17 and 30, and that will continue for the entire year with it probably topping 34 in the peak of summer - yep, pretty perfect !  No wonder the Europeans love living here.

Is it better ?

You can never turn back time, so it is impossible to really say if it is better or worse a second time round.  I suppose it’s easier to say that I have arrived in Bangalore for s second time with my eyes wide open and a lot more aware of how things roll. I know the lay of the land upfront and understand the reality of living a life in India.  It definitely is strange to feel like we've returned 'home' but we don't know anyone. I am not shocked or surprised by much and know where to go to get things but I don’t have any friends - it's a very odd situation to be in.  I promise that it will changing quickly, as the number one rule of moving to a new location is to get out there and say 'yes' to very invite that comes your way.  I had my first ladies Pokeno night yesterday and am meeting new people every day.

I hope this sort of answers the questions I have received.

This was previously a pile of trash in 2015  and now is a bank of shops

This road used to be a dirt track with shanties on either side.